Mossy

200 ISO

Exposure:	0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture:	f/5.0
Focal Length:	43 mm
ISO Speed:	200
Exposure Bias:	0 EV

Critique: I think the composition and subject is interesting. Wish I'd had a graduated ND filter to keep the sky from blowing out so much.

Homemade Diffuser/Reflector for Built in Flash Use

Last night I was shooting indoors and had to use the built in Flash since I don't have anything else yet. It was really harsh so I took a 3x5 card, folded it in half (to double it's diffusing power) and held it in front of the Flash at a 45 degree angle so the light would simultaneously be diffused and bounced up to the roof. The resulting difference in quality was incredible and even more so considering it was done with a piece of paper.

Actually, on second thought, I am not sure that all of the light wasn't bounced. I would have to test to see if the Flash was getting through the 3x5 card at all. Either way I was happy with the results.

Impromptu Portraiture

The first two of these photo I took using the built in flash on my 30D along with a 3x5 card held in front of it at a 45 degree angle to serve as both diffuser and reflector. It's a hack but the photos turn out far nicer than just shooting with the naked flash.

Exposure:	0.02 sec (1/50)
Aperture:	f/2.0
Focal Length:	50 mm
ISO Speed:	400
Exposure Bias:	0 EV
Flash:	On, Fired

Critique: I like this shot a lot. One of my favorite portraits to date. I would crop out the small line from the window along the top.

Exposure:	0.013 sec (1/80)
Aperture:	f/2.0
Focal Length:	50 mm
ISO Speed:	400
Exposure Bias:	0 EV
Flash:	On, Fired

Critique: The shadows on the right side of her face are distracting as is the chocolate on her lips.

Exposure:	0.017 sec (1/60)
Aperture:	f/1.8
Focal Length:	50 mm
ISO Speed:	100
Exposure Bias:	0 EV
Flash:	Off, Did not fire

Critique: DoF is too shallow. Left eye is in good focus but right eye isn't. It was a low light situation and the shutter speed was already maxed out but I should have raised the ISO (100) to allow for changes to aperture.

Quilted Night Sky

Critique: It alright. I wish I had something better than houses right below the interesting sky. Also, the street light leaking in on the left side is distracting. I tried to move so it wouldn't be a factor but couldn't completely get rid of it.

Exposure:	15
Aperture:	f/8.0
Focal Length:	18 mm
ISO Speed:	200
Exposure Bias:	0 EV
Flash:	Off, Did not fire

The 3 Elements of Making Great Photos

What makes a great photo? This is a question I've been thinking about quite a bit lately. My qualifications for writing anything on the subject are limited but it seems like to capture really great photos on a consistent basis you need three things: equipment, technique and opportunity.

I should define what I mean by great photos. This is subjective but... great photos have enough resolution for printing at 8x10 or larger, they capture the viewer and have wonderful composition. More could be added to this but it will do for now.

Equipment

You can't take a photo without a camera and you can't take a good photo without a good camera. Of course there are exceptions. I've captured some wonderful shots on my iPhone but are they really great when they aren't big enough for a decent print? I say no, others will say yes. Either way you slice it a good camera with a good lens will consistently take WAY better photos.

Technique

While a good camera takes you a long ways towards capturing that great photo it's unlikely you can be very consistent unless you master the techniques involved in using the equipment to capture the moment just as you want it. This would include be able to use your camera in Manual mode and understanding all the basics of light (aperture, ISO, shutter speed etc.)

Opportunity

This is a big one. Opportunity is being in the right place  at the right time to capture a beautiful moment. I live in Spokane and in the dead of winter when there's no pretty snow on the ground, and all the color is washed out of the outdoor world it might be hard to capture a great landscape photo. If I lived in Hawaii I would have more opportunity for easy shots that would be really amazing. This is not to say that the great shot doesn't exist in "winter Spokane" but it's harder to find. Opportunity is something that sometimes comes very easy and other times you really have to work for it and even create it  (i.e. create a photo studio).

Real World Example

I am in Trout Lake, Washington standing in the dark on the edge of an icy lake with Mount Adams in the background. I lost my tripod in the woods. Looking at the list of three things...

I certainly have an opportunity to take an amazing shot. It's clear, the stars are out, and there's an amazing mountain in front of me which is being reflected perfectly in the lake.

I don't have all the equipment needed for the photo. The biggest issue was the lack of tripod which I definitely could have used for a 60 second exposure. The image quality reflects that I had the camera on a saw horse and didn't have a remote shutter release. I also forgot to put on my wider angle lens which resulted in missing out on the lake and a more open shot.

Regarding technique: I know how to use my camera in manual mode and knew I could keep the shutter open using the "bulb" setting. I also needed a way to focus in almost complete darkness. I was able to do this by focusing on the moon behind me and then switching the camera to manual focus in order to "save" that focus for the mountain shot.

The resulting photo is interesting but not great in my mind. It lacks some sharpness (see stars) and needs to be lightened up a bit in Photoshop before being really usable.

Milk Bubbles

Metering Mode: Multi-segment

Exposure:	0.02 sec (1/50)
Aperture:	f/4.5
Focal Length:	50 mm
ISO Speed:	200
Exposure Bias:	0 EV

Trout Lake, Washington

Got to spend the weekend with friends in Trout Lake, Washington at the base of Mount Adams and just north of Hood River. It's one of the most beautiful places I've ever been and I was happy to have a decent camera with me on this trip even if it is the dead of winter.

The trip made me more convinced then ever that I need to invest in some filters. Specifically a UV, a polarizing, a ND and a graduated ND filter. Seems like  these four would come in very handy with landscape photography in particular.

I also think I need to focus more on getting a single good shot rather than taking a bunch of pictures assuming one will turn out interesting. I wasn't pleased with the number of sharply focused and well-exposed shots I ended up with compared with the number of photos I took.


Fishing platform from which native americans catch salmon. Precarious is what I call it.

















Critique - Should have metered off her face and not the overall scene. Love the expression though. It was windy and cold!

Exposure:	0.02 sec (1/50)
Aperture:	f/8.0
Focal Length:	18 mm
ISO Speed:	100
Exposure Bias:	0 EV

If you've every driven on I-84 through the Gorge you've seen the tree farm on the south side of the interstate. I finally decided to stop although it will be much more spectacular in the fall. Still something compelling about thousands upon thousands of trees in perfect rows.



Every shot has a story which is something I love about photography. This dark shot of mount Adams was late at night after I had left my tripod in the woods. The coyotes were howling and the camera is resting on a saw horse with folded up newspaper propping the lens up to the right height. I had the shutter set to "bulb" which means my finger was holding it open for 61 seconds to get the exposure. I focused on a finger-nail moon and then switched to manual and took the shot while my friend timed the exposure so I could try to stay still. Given the less than ideal conditions I was happy with the result.

Exposure:	61
Aperture:	f/4.5
Focal Length:	50 mm
ISO Speed:	100
Exposure Bias:	0 EV

Evening Flight

IMG_3571, originally uploaded by schevange.

I think the vignetting in the top corners is from the eaves of my house. I was shooting this out an upstairs window.

Exposure: 0.001 sec (1/2000)
Aperture: f/3.2
Focal Length: 50 mm
ISO Speed: 160
Exposure Bias: 0 EV
Exposure Program: Aperture-priority AE

Sunset Through a Dirty Winter Window

IMG_3567, originally uploaded by schevange.

Exposure: 0.02 sec (1/50)
Aperture: f/3.2
Focal Length: 50 mm
ISO Speed: 160
Exposure Bias: +2 EV
Exposure Program: Aperture-priority AE

Night Shots 3

IMG_3549, originally uploaded by schevange.

Might be cool with a severe crop job to turn it into a panoramic.

Exposure:	15
Aperture:	f/13.0
Focal Length:	25 mm
ISO Speed:	100
Exposure Bias:	0 EV

Night Shots 2

IMG_3558, originally uploaded by schevange.

Both photos could use some cropping but I am too tired. Found that about 4 seconds is right for a nice blur on traffic moving around 25 mph. Not sure how to keep the lights from getting blown out? Not sure it's possible without loss of the bridge underneath.

Exposure:	4
Aperture:	f/11.0
Focal Length:	50 mm
ISO Speed:	100
Exposure Bias:	0 EV

Night Shots 1

Under the bridge. I was a little nervous since it was late at night and I was in a "mugging friendly" zone. At one point I thought "someone could sneak up behind me and I would know because of the river sounds. They could then throw me over this railing where I would fall off a 30 foot cliff onto the rocks below." It was after this self-dialogue that I quickly moved back up to street level where people could hear my girlish screams should they become necessary.

Exposure:	4
Aperture:	f/5.6
Focal Length:	50 mm
ISO Speed:	100
Exposure Bias:	0 EV

Studio Lighting Seminar

I found this 6-part series on youtube the other day. Very informative for total newbs to studio lighting. I no longer feel totally ignorant. I've upgraded to very ignorant. One of my goals for January is to take a nice indoor portrait. This might change to outdoor since viewing this series on lighting. I am just not very confident I can do much indoors without lighting.

Mission Accomplished

I just got back from selling the 20D body on Craigslist so I've accomplished at least one of my goals for January. Gotta remember to end the ebay auction for it so I don't end up selling a camera I don't own!

The guy I sold the 20D to is part of On the Edge Media based here in Spokane. He's converting it to infrared. The cool thing is that I got to drop it off at his shop and talk to him for 30 minutes or so. Basically he has the job I want. A visual creative (they do video, web, photo etc.) who gets to travel around the world and pick and choose jobs because they are that high in demand. It was fascinating to talk to a professional photographer about lenses, cameras etc. I don't know much yet that's for sure.

Basic Motion Blurs

My critique: Both of the waterfall photos needed a slower shutter speed to blur the water a bit more. They were .3 and .25 seconds respectively. The photo of my daughter is cool enough but I would have loved to have her a bit more focused. I am not thrilled about the composition on the waterfall photos but it will do for a first effort.

AV vs TV vs Manual Modes

I've read some on the main shooting modes used by professional photographers. Up to this point I've shot exclusively in Manual mode (M on my 30D) simply because it forces me to learn more and gives me complete control over the camera.

I would have guessed that most pros shoot in Manual mode but I think I am wrong and that it depends more on what they are shooting. So for a wedding I might shoot in Av mode  (aperture priority). In this mode when I change the aperture to what I want, to control depth of field, the shutter speed automagically compensates keeping my shot perfectly exposed. This is nice and I can definitely see how it would allow me to take photos faster.

If I am shooting action and less concerned with DoF then freezing the action I can switch to Tv mode which somehow stands for shutter priority? Why not Sv, and what's with the "v"? I digress. Switching to Tv mode allows me to control shutter speed while the camera automagically adjusts the aperture to keep the exposure beautiful.

Also useful is that fact that in either of these modes you can still adjust the automagical element (i.e. the aperture in Tv mode) to do some exposure compensation which the camera keeps stored apparently.

Since I like full control I will still be shooting mainly in Manual but will give the other modes a try when time is of the essence.

Here's a summary I found in an article comment:

Manual

• Always when shooting flash, because the camera's meter is easily fooled, regardless of what kind of metering you're using.


• During a consistent lighting situation where there's little to no change in the brightness or quality of light, so that I'm in constant control of depth of field and motion blur.

Aperture Priority

• When in a variable light situation where light quality changes from shot to shot, like the getting ready room where one moment may be near a bright window and in the same breath, a reaction may be across the room under tungsten light.


• During sunset, when I simply want to focus on getting the best images during those last few moments of golden light without worrying about changing my exposure every 3 minutes due to the dimming light.


• In high contrast situations where moments need to be nailed and isolated in both shade and sun without time to switch exposures.

Shutter Priority

• When I don't have time to meter or think about depth of field, but want to grab a quick shot of something in motion using super slow or super fast shutter.

Program

• When I'm feeling too sick, tired, or lazy in the moment and am willing to do a lot of post-production correction. (Usually the thought of all the post-production is enough to make me want to snap out of it and use the gray matter floating in my head.)

My First Print Order

I decided to print the photo of my wife because I am really interested to see if it prints true to what I see on the 30D LCD (probably not) and my nice Dell monitor.

I used Snapfish because they are so easy when using Flickr. I ordered an 8x10 and the total price was under $5 shipped which isn't too bad.

My little past experience is  that photos print darker than what I see on screen.  Hopefully this won't be the case. I would suppose it has to do a lot with the quality of processing.

First Try at Portraiture

IMG_3046, originally uploaded by schevange.

My obliging wife after lunch. There are windows to her right and right-rear which gave a lot of nice soft winter light.

I think the colors  and composition are good  (I told her to do "tired mom look"). I don't like that her ear and shirt is out of focus. DOF was too shallow. I also should have had her take off her watch, it's distracting.

Details: 50mm, f 3.2, 1/100sec, 200ISO

This is working towards completing my January goals.

Depth of Field Preview Button

On the front of the Canon DSLRs there's a Depth of Field preview button which I just figured out how to use. I thought that when it darkened part of the screen it was showing the area that would not be on focus. As with many things, I was totally wrong.

I learned the truth at http://www.slrphotographyguide.com/camera/depthfield-preview-button.shtml. Not much of a web site but the info seems good in this case.

So my updated understanding of the DOF preview button is that the default viewfinder view is with the aperture wide open. This is why the DOF preview button doesn't seem to work with a large aperture. Crank down the aperture and you will begin to see the preview image get darker which is caused by the aperture closing (hence less light). The important thing that I missed in all the shading is that the sharpness of the image does in fact change based on the f-stop.

I foresee myself using this a lot now that I actually know what to look for.

January Goals

I am getting overwhelmed with the amount of information I am taking in and think it would be good to set some goals each month for my learning. I was also inspired by the article on Digital Photography School -  30 Photographic Goals for 2010.

For January, and since it's hand-achingly cold here in Spokane:

1. I am going to learn to shoot a nice indoor portrait. Specifically the photo should have:

• Accurate recreation of colors


• Sharp focus on the subject


• Artistic use of depth of field to isolate the subject

2.  Sell one of my less desirable lenses and the 20D body. I got a little overeager and bought a nice used Canon 20D on eBay only to find a 30D on Craigslist for just a tad more. So now I have a 20D arriving any day and definitely need to sell it along with one of the low end zooms. I have the 18-55 kit zoom and the 75-300mm. Both don't garner good reviews but I don't have the cash for a better lens right now and want to experiment with zooms to know what range I might like when I can afford something better.

• Use both zoom lenses indoor and out and determine which I prefer to keep based on image quality.

White Balance, Color Temperature & 30D LCD

Today I am learning about white balance and color temperatures and just ordered my first 18% gray card which is supposed to help set accurate white balances.

I have much to learn on the subject but was driven to it by the fact that when I shoot indoors with AWB (auto white balance) the shots are consistently too warm and not very faithful to what my eye is actually seeing.

Yesterday I also learned the with the Canon 30D in particular you can't exactly trust the LCD review, it has too much green in it. In reality it's a bit small to do much review of anything more than basic exposure and sharpness but it's good to know nonetheless.

Further Reading

White balance: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/white-balance.htm

Canon 30D LCD issue: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/dslr-comparison/lcds-2006/index.htm

First Landscape Session

Spokane River, originally uploaded by schevange.

It's freezing cold here in Spokane right now but I was desperate to shoot something visually appealing and not indoors so I took off early from work to catch the end of the day on the bluff above the Spokane River.

I am not content with the shot but it was the best of the bunch. In particular I don't like the washed out sky. But maybe it's not possible to have pretty sky and river? I don't know how to do it yet if it is.

Update: I guess  there's a filter for just this scenario where the filter is split in half so the top half darkens the sky and the bottom lightens the ground. Too advanced for me at this point but interesting to know it exists.